There are ways to prevent this of course. If you change your mind, you’ve got nowhere to go, you can’t get that information back. See all those gaps? That’s information you’ve thrown away. Have a look at the histogram in Levels when using the Enhance Monochromatic Contrast option. Levels Adjustment LayerĮverything you’ve done so far has been destructive editing. You’ve been throwing away pixels, which affects the quality of the photo. Now when you use Auto Levels, it’ll give you a quick fix when you need to get done in a hurry. So choose the option you prefer the most and save it as the default. It finds the average lightest and darkest pixels in your photo and uses them to get the best contrast while avoiding clipping.Įach person will have their own preference for which looks best on their photo. This option is used by the Auto Color command. This has the effect of changing both the contrast and the color of your photo as seen below. This setting emulates you going in and setting each channel separately to get the white and black points to the edge of information for each color channel. You can have your images render this way automatically by ticking the “Save as Defaults” checkbox. If you prefer the drama, leave the black clipping at 0.10%. You’ll notice the reduction in the blacks from this adjustment immediately. To prevent pure white and pure blacks being so deep, you need to back off the clipping settings. For now, you should leave these at the defaults. In general, these should be black, mid gray, and white, but you could set them to suit tasks like having pure white below 255 to render something when printed, instead of paper white. Clicking on the swatch gives Photoshop the base color for your blacks, neutrals, and white. That’s because of the mix of the swatch settings and the clip settings below. You’ll notice that the shadows are more than a little crushed in these images, though. You can also automatically fix the color by clicking the “Snap Neutral Midtones” checkbox. By moving the White Point to the left, you can brighten the image and fix the underexposure.Īuto Levels with the default set to Enhance Monochromatic Contrast.
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You can see there’s a huge gap between the ends of the mountain in the histogram below and the White Point slider. Now that you know what the bits do, let’s look at them practically. Preview allows you to see the changes you’re making on the image before applying the effect.
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The Eyedroppers allow you to select the Black, Mid-tone, and White Points by clicking on specific parts of the photo. We’ll look at Auto and Options separately. In general, you won’t use these as much as input levels. You can dictate the brightest or darkest point allowable in the image using these sliders. You may also have a perceived change in contrast as some tones at the extremes are compressed. Left will lighten the mid-tone, while moving it to the right will darken. Moving the Midpoint, (also referred to as the Gamma) it will shift the histogram the same direction effectively lightening or darkening the mid-tones. If you move the White Point to the left, this means that any pixel to the right of the new position will be rendered as white. If you move the Black Point to the right, all tones to the left of the new position are rendered as pure black pixels. The centre one in the Mid-tone Point, while the top is the White Point, or brightest tone in the image. The leftmost is the Black Point, which controls the darkest tones in the image. You can edit these points by dragging the triangle along the histogram. Each triangle has a number below it (the defaults are set at 0, 1.00 and 255). This shows the histogram with three triangles (see above). Same for a dark product shot on a white background. A night scene of stars will have the bulk of the tones in the dark region, with a spike at the top. Typically you’ll hear people say that the bulk of tones should be in the middle, but that’s not exactly right. The side axis shows the strength a given tone has at that particular brightness. The bottom axis shows the range of brightness in the image from dark to light. The HistogramĪ Histogram is a graphical representation of the colors and tones in your photo. But first, we’ll talk a little about Histograms. You’ll also take your first step with Layers by using a Levels Adjustment Layer right at the end.
#HOW TO USE PHOTOSHOP WITH TOUCH SCREEN HOW TO#
In this article, you’ll learn how to use the Levels tool, along with Auto Levels and learn to set up Auto Levels to suit your personal preference for the tool’s response.
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If you’ve been a Lightroom only user, and are a CC subscriber, do follow along to start your journey into Photoshop.
#HOW TO USE PHOTOSHOP WITH TOUCH SCREEN SERIES#
So this is the first in a series of articles to bring you up to speed on some of the most useful tools to you as a photographer for editing and correcting your photos. Photoshop is a pretty daunting program when you’re beginning.